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Alex and I joined a local bodyboarder for the paddle out, but Alex didn't make it out after 15 minutes and just went back in. PdP usually has a channel to the north, but for some reason there have been lot's of waves breaking there... some even ridable. There has been lot's silt buildup this year that has really clouded the local waters when there's the high surf for a couple of days or lot's of on-shore wind. I wasn't out in the line-up very long before a clean-up set rolled through catching me just inside. This was not a duck-diving wave nor one you wanted to just turnaround and let it roll through you since even at high tide the inside reef is still nearly dry. With a good leash and nobody else around, I dismounted and attempted swimming under the wave but the white water hitting the 6 foot deep reef had other intentions. After getting pulled this way and that I finally surfaced but it took the board anoher couple of seconds... it's usually the other way around. For a moment I feared the leash was wrapped around a coral outcropping. The bodyboarder and I each
caught a few waves over the next hour and a half before we gave up on this
very disorganized swell, a mix of longer period but smaller NW and a shorter
period North. The rights were usually better than the lefts at this
"left" break.
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